Never Discard Seafood Eggs: Transform It To a Gourmet Butter – Guide
Outside its stunning shores and wild coastline, Jersey has a remarkable food tradition, firmly rooted in its land and ocean. Starting with world-famous Jersey Royal baby potatoes to shellfish sweeter and softer than those tasted anywhere else, the island's harvest is unmatched. The thing that thrills many above all, though, is how island farmers and producers are adopting regenerative farming, and in doing so reinventing the island's food future with innovation and care.
A few weeks ago, I was fortunate to host a discussion at an inspiring gathering, and prepare a welcome dinner for the speakers, alongside an inspiring founder. Naturally, the shellfish were a must on my spread, since they're Jersey at its best: subtle, plump and bursting of the sea.
Scallops appear as the ultimate symbol of the island's culinary evolution: succulent, plump and restorative by nature, purifying and refreshing the water while contributing to create coastal ecosystems. Both farmed and, importantly, diver-caught, they're among the eco-friendliest proteins to eat. Yet even, who were raised on the island, do not eat their eggs – a common affliction, unfortunately. All the more reason to celebrate these rosy tidbits, which are far too delicious to throw out. Blended into a spread, they turn into pure luxury: drizzle over scallops, stir into rice dishes or simply spread on warm bread.
Scallops may be a bit pricey, though, so I have created the following method to turn a single scallop into a stunning appetizer (or three into a satisfying main course) and, by whipping their roe into smoked spice butter and baking them in the half-shells with small tomatoes and garlic, unused parts turns into a luxury.
That same ethos of reinvention is central to the movement, which introduced a prize providing funding to food pioneers with backing, guidance and access to a retail platform. Judged by some of respected food experts, the prize will be awarded at an forthcoming conference. It's about supporting ideas that will help our agricultural networks flourish, across the board, and I can't think of a more exciting place for that conversation to start than Jersey.
Scallops Roasted in Roe Butter with Small Tomatoes and Crushed Garlic
Yields 6 as a starter or two as a main
Six with eggs scallops in the half-shell
Eighteen cherry tomatoes, cut in half
6 garlic cloves, crushed
Three whole chili peppers (such as jalapeño), halved lengthways, or 1 pinch red pepper flakes, or to preference (if desired)
50g unsalted butter
One teaspoon smoked or sweet paprika
Sea salt and pepper, to liking
Lemon slices, to accompany
A little samphire, agretti or 6 tiny gherkin slices, to decorate (if using)
Prepare the scallops, detaching the roe from each and leaving the remaining part of the shellfish fixed to the shell (ask your seafood supplier to do this for you, if necessary). Place six cherry tomato halves in every shell with the equivalent of crushed garlic and one half a red chilli, if added.
Transfer the scallop roes in the jug of a hand blender (I find it's the most effective method for mixing tiny quantities), include the butter and spice, and blend until creamy. Divide the mixture among the half-shells, making sure each shellfish is well coated in the butter.
Heat the broiler until it's very hot, then put the shellfish under the heat for 6-8 minutes, until blistered and bubbling. Serve right away, topped with optional sea vegetables, agretti, a piece of pickle and/or a drizzle of the gherkin brine or a bit of lemon.